2001 saturn sl Manual transmissuon Code P0300

Here's my issue. I have a 2001 Saturn. SL manual transmission 84000 miles I have the P. 0 300 code. That's the only code I have. It happened suddenly literally suddenly. I was driving off from a stop light and all of a sudden. I lost all power (suddenly) engine light started blinking. I was able to get it home barely but I noticed I used a lot more gas than normal to get back home. It was maybe only 8 miles. When I got
It home, it died
I tried to immediately start It ,would not start. I let it sit 24 hours tried to start. It started, but about 4 minutes later it died. If I tried to restart it right after it died, it won't start. I have to wait a while. I also smell gas really bad If you need any more information please just ask.I'll gladly give it.I just got car 6 months ago.I've only put maybe 3 or 4 thousand miles on it.... It has very little power.I've had a lot of misfires on my Saturns,But I could actually feel them misfiring, this one I don't feel a misfire.It just has very little power.... This is my first post on here.i have not replaced nothing on this saturn other than brake pads...also my 4th cylinder injector has dampness all over it and on the connector, there expensive so wanted more info before I just replace it.

 

Try replacing engine coolant temperature sensor ECTS AND the HARNESS. It is corroded by now.

When it fails, the car runs extremely rich because the PCM thinks the coolant temperature is -40. Just like an old-fashioned choke, it richens the mixture to the point that some vehicles will simply stall out and not restart.

Is the vehicle also running very hot when sitting still? Meaning is the engine running extremely hot even though the temperature gauge does not indicate as such?

The loss of power may be due to a clogged catalytic converter which is blocking the flow of exhaust through the system. It creates back pressure back through the exhaust manifold and stifles proper flow of exhaust out of the cylinders. This keeps proper intake of the air fuel charge from occurring, resulting in a misfire. I know what you mean about feeling a misfire vs not feeling it. The s cars are very sensitive as to what the pcm fems s misfire.

#4: sounds like injector is leaking. Ensure it is properly seated. It should fit snugly into the o-ring like the other three.

If it is leaking through its body it must be replaced.
Just make sure the wetness is actually gas
Dab it w a paper towel and do the sniff test.

I'd expect a P0304 for it, but since you have P0300 already it must be pretty random.

Timing may have jumped a tooth but these engines tend to self destruct pretty quickly. I don't think you would have been able to drive it home

 

Accidentally created a second user account
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Try replacing engine coolant temperature sensor ECTS AND the HARNESS. It is corroded by now.

When it fails, the car runs extremely rich because the PCM thinks the coolant temperature is -40. Just like an old-fashioned choke, it richens the mixture to the point that some vehicles will simply stall out and not restart.

Is the vehicle also running very hot when sitting still? Meaning is the engine running extremely hot even though the temperature gauge does not indicate as such?

The loss of power may be due to a clogged catalytic converter which is blocking the flow of exhaust through the system. It creates back pressure back through the exhaust manifold and stifles proper flow of exhaust out of the cylinders. This keeps proper intake of the air fuel charge from occurring, resulting in a misfire. I know what you mean about feeling a misfire vs not feeling it. The s cars are very sensitive as to what the pcm fems s misfire.

#4: sounds like injector is leaking. Ensure it is properly seated. It should fit snugly into the o-ring like the other three.

If it is leaking through its body it must be replaced.
Just make sure the wetness is actually gas
Dab it w a paper towel and do the sniff test.

I'd expect a P0304 for it, but since you have P0300 already it must be pretty random.

Timing may have jumped a tooth but these engines tend to self destruct pretty quickly. I don't think you would have been able to drive it home

 

I'm so sorry I just saw this....I fixed it ...it was the ignition control module...but since I have your attention I had to take the icm off my 02 sl1 and put it on my 01 sl so I need one for my 02 lol I went to junk yard but am curious can I take icm off dohc engine looks the same but wanna make sure? Thanks for your someone I respect I have read alot of you on here feels kinda like an honor to have the great derf respond lol..sorry for 2nd user account I've never made account on these type of forums before but I have read alot prolly all of them over the last 5 years you personally have helped me with my car several times and dident even know it lol u do a great job and just wanted to say thanks for the time you put into these forums caise your effort is noticed and appreciated oh, also what grease goes on back of icm?

 

Per parts compatibility / fitment, the ICM for 96 to 2002 SC and SL engines is the same regardless of SOHC or DOHC.

Compatibility with the SW cars is listed as 96 to 2001, but I believe 2001 was the last year for the wagon, so it would also be okay to get one out of a wagon it would seem.

Brand new is not terribly expensive depending on what you get. I wouldn't buy a cheap ass one unless you want to replace it every cheap ass year.

Just like getting a rebuilt starter at AutoZone with a lifetime warranty. You can replace it every year until you die and it doesn't cost extra.

 

All of my replies to the s car posts were made across 2 days. Nobody frequents this forum, so I thought I would try to jump it in the Google search zone by having their be tremendous activity on consecutive days.

Didn't really seem to matter. Can't say I didn't try.

Saturnforum

 

Thank you very much