Belt is screeching again

I just replaced the belt on my 97 SL1 this past Dec. and it has started
slipping again when first starting. I checked to see if there was any oil
on it and it looks clean. I have about 174k miles on it and was wondering
if the tensioner could be weak or pulley is locking up. Anyone have any
of these symptoms before?
Thanks a bunch,
MR

 

I've had this sympton on my '95 SW2 for years. The belt squeals
sometimes for a few seconds after first starting the engine. I've
changed the belt and pulled off the pulleys to check the bearings.
I've concluded it's a weak tensioner. (I figure the extra load from
the alternator recharging the battery after starting causes some belt
slippage.) Still not sure if I'm gonna bother replacing the
tensioner. The part is not real expensive, but the job is a little
bit of a pain due to limited working room.

 

I've seen other posts here about weak tensioners and how they should be
replaced. Also worth if you have to take off the belt, to inspect all the
grooves that they are clean and free of any compacted crud. If the belt
can't seat all the way into the groove, it will slip.
You are correct about the alternator load on startup. It is sometimes worse
when the alternator has been replaced with a heavier duty unit which has a
higher torque load. When the system is charging, the highest torqe load from
the alternator is at idle.
Oppie

 

Sounds like a good cause for the slipping.

You have that right. It would be nice if a fender well panel could be
removed for easy access.
Thanks for the input.
MR

 

I would recommend replacing the tensioner. And I would do it before it
comes apart while you are out on the road. My buddy is a parts guy at
Saturn and he claims they see them come apart and will leave you
stranded. Replace the tensioner on your terms and schedule, not your
cars! I have replaced mine twice in 120K, so yours must be living on
borrowed time.

James

 

Is it the whole tensioner or just the pulley that fails or both? The
pulley looks as if it would be pretty easy to change, but the tensioner
looks to be a real bitch to change out.
Thanks,
MR

 

The tensioner is fastened to the motor with 2 bolts if I recall correctly.
Remove the inner wheel well liner, and access it will provide should allow
you to swap it without too much fuss.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

 

After getting into it, I noticed that the tensioner, and idler pulley that
mounts on center of engine need replacing. The idler pulley is worn where
the belt contacts and grease has come out of the bearing and caked on
seals. Also, tensioner is shot and pulley on it is worn also.
I am in the middle of removing the tensioner now(ran out of time last
nite). It is a tough place to work with large hands even thru the wheel
well. The new tensioner came with a poly pulley instead of metal. Sure
hope it holds up as well as the metal one. It should as it cost $58.
Thanks for the all the info from the group.
MR

 

Working thru the wheel housing is the easiest, but one bolt is still a
pain, but not impossible. If I recall correctly, I used a u-joint or
wobble extention.

Replace both the tensioner and the idler pulley if you suspect both
are bad or high milage. The tensioner will have the pulley already
attached.

 

It is the top bolt on the tensioner that was a pain to get out and in due
to pwr. steering pulley, but finnally finished it using a few sockets,
wrenches etc.

Right on. I replaced both as they had both lost the grease out of the
bearings and had a groove worn in the pulleys from the back of belt
contact and possibly pulley drag. I suspect that the pulleys were right
at the point of self destructing and will check to see if the drag from
them was causing a drop in gas mileage.
Thanks again for the info.
MR

 

Had this problem with one of my other cars. The belt tensioner bearing was
worn out. It made a schreeching sound you wouldn't believe! I think you will
be better off replacing the tensioner pulley/bearing/spring assembly.

 

I did. Replaced tensioner, which came as an ass'y. with pulley. And I
might add, had a poly material for pulley. It was a Dayco brand and made
in US. Also replaced the idler pulley which was shot. Not only gained
peace of mind, but got the gas mileage back to what it should be. I would
not have thought that the bad pulleys could have had that much of an
effect on mpg.
I must say though, that it was a bitch of a job, but worth it.
MR