Clicking sound when starting

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by Sarah Dwyer, Sep 1, 2004.

  1. Sarah Dwyer

    Sarah Dwyer Guest

    On saturday my friend and I went on a road trip a few hours away to
    Conneticut. We did some shopping and then when we ready to drive home
    her car wouldn't start. It's a 2001 saturn(i can't remember the
    model). All she got was a clicking sound. Immediately we checked to
    make we didn't leave anything on in the car and found nothing.

    Fortunately she had jumper cables so we asked someone in the parking
    lot eventually for a jump. We figured that out but it didn't end up
    getting her car started. We decided to call AAA and waited a while for
    them. The guy jumped her car and it started pretty quick. Not sure why
    it didn't work earlier, maybe we didn't wait long enough. The
    headlights weren't dim and everything electrical worked fine so we
    think it's not the alternator. We drove all the way home and didn't
    turn off the car. The next day she replaced the battery and it was ok
    after that. Yesterday her car wouldn't start again and someone
    mentioned it was maybe the fuel pump instead.

    Has anyone had a similar experience to this? Were there other issues
    happening?

    Thanks.
     
    Sarah Dwyer, Sep 1, 2004
    #1
  2. Sarah Dwyer

    Bob Shuman Guest

    Sarah,

    You really need to describe the symptoms better to provide much assistance.

    When you try to start the vehicle and hear the "click" does the starter turn
    the engine over or is there just silence afterward? If you hear a click
    followed by nothing then based on what you have said and assuming the
    battery is still fully charged the problem is probably the starter solenoid
    (more likely), starter relay (less likely), or ignition switch (less
    likely). Given that the battery cables were likely cleaned (with a wire
    brush) before the new battery was installed, these can probably be ruled
    out, although the battery cable connection at the starter itself could still
    need a good cleaning as well.

    If it is the starter solenoid, then you can generally keep re-trying and
    eventually the solenoid plunger will "catch" and make good enough contact to
    start the car. (This might explain why the tow truck driver was able to get
    it started.) A way I've used to validate that it was the starter solenoid
    was to have someone turn the key and hold in the start position while I was
    reaching under the vehicle (be very careful if you try this) and lightly
    taping on the starter itself. The vibration is usually enough to seat the
    solenoid and engage the starter.

    If the battery is run down (check the voltage) then the problem could also
    well be a defective alternator.

    As to this being a fuel pump, this would not prevent the starter from
    turning over so if this is what you are seeing then the starter and solenoid
    are fine and you need to look elsewhere, but keep in mind that fuel is just
    one of three things required for combustion.

    Good luck.

    Bob
     
    Bob Shuman, Sep 1, 2004
    #2
  3. Sarah Dwyer

    Art Guest

    Did the shop that changed the battery check the charging system? They
    should have. Could be loose belt or alternator.
     
    Art, Sep 1, 2004
    #3
  4. Sarah Dwyer

    Oppie Guest

    Often a car will not start with the type of jumper cables most stores offer.
    Many of the cables sold have very little copper conductor in them, often
    only #10awg but they do have a misleading large thickness of plastic
    covering. Cables like those are good only if you have a dead battery that
    can be recharged. They don't carry enough current to start an engine. It may
    take 20 minutes or more for the battery to charge enough to crank the
    engine.
    The jumper cables I have now are the largest ones that Sears sold, #4awg as
    I recall. Even those are a bit skimpy for jump starting. I used to have a
    set of cables that must have been #0 conductor and were heavy enough to
    start a Cadallac on the first crank. Alas the insulation started to go on
    those cables and I had to replace them.

    If you have a voltmeter, the battery should measure about 12V with engine
    off and full charge on battery. With engine running, you should get 13.8V or
    thereabouts for a good charging system. From what I've read on the Saturns,
    all sorts of strange stuff happens if the voltage is not good. Be sure to
    check that first.
    On cranking, battery voltage shouldn't fall below 8V.

    Oppie
     
    Oppie, Sep 2, 2004
    #4
  5. The fact that the car ran for a few days after you replaced the battery
    points to a bad alternator. When you installed the new battery you had lots
    of power but if the alternator was not working (usually the regulator inside
    the alternator shorts out (a common occurrence in Saturns) ) This causes the
    battery to discharge enough after a few days to leave you stranded again.
    Get yourself a digital meter at an automotive store (they are very
    inexpensive about $15) and then you can do the simple tests mentioned in the
    previous tread and you can quickly tell what is the problem. It is a lot
    cheaper then just guessing and buying different parts needlessly. It will be
    also very useful in the future if you have any more electrical problems.
    Alex
     
    Alex Marcuzzi, Sep 5, 2004
    #5
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