Help with coolant leak on '96 SL

Just noticed a small puddle of coolant under my '96 SL. I can't
tell where it is leaking from, looks like it is coming off the front
(passenger side?) of the engine by the belt and dripping down to the
frame, and then running back. I was thinking water pump since it has
130K on it, but I don't see it leaking at the pump, but it is hard to
see down there.

My inclination is to get a pump and change it out, but is there
anything else that could be leaking? Any tips on pump R&R? It looks
like the pump is easy to get to.

Thanks!

Larry

 

My '92 SL had a leak and it was coming from the prop shaft being worn down,
I'd just swap out the water pump.
Dave

 

A pressure test of the cooling system will usually enhance the leak
making it easier to locate.

 

Take a close looksee at the weep hole on the pump.

Also, you can try putting a few ounces of flourescent liquid in your
rad (you can get that at automotive shops). After a few days shine some
black light underneath the engine and hopefully that will tell you
where the leak is coming from.

 

IMHO:

I would check the water pump. When the seal fails, there is a weep
hole that coolant leaks out of.

Good luck,

tom @ www.MedJobSite.com

 

Not only is it easy to get to, you dont even have to take any hoses
off!
The replacement part is simply the impeller, its bearings and plate
that
cover the recess.
-DC

 

I just finished this job (95 SW2, 123k mi.) and it wasn't a whole lot
of fun.
First step is to remove right front wheel and 2 plastic fender well
panels.
Next remove A/C compressor. (Looked like you had a choice of removing
the compressor from the bracket or the bracket from the engine. I
opted for the former.)
Next remove 3 bolts holding the pulley on the pump. I didn't have
enough clearance to get the pulley out, but loosening the torque axis
mount to lower the engine a tad got me the little bit I needed. Next
there's 6 bolts holding the pump flange to the block. Use some Hi-Tack
to stick the gasket to the new pump. Reverse procedure. Duralast
AWP-844 = $40 + 2 hrs. work.

 

Odd -
definately jacked the car up, removed the wheel, panels took the slack
of the serpantine belt and stuff but DONT remember having to mess
around with the compressor at all.
I was able to do the whole job under the fender without much trouble.
Less than one hour counting removal and re-adding coolant. Could that
be because front end is SW or SL?
I didnt think theres much difference.
(94 SC-2)
-DC

 

DC:
I'm sure there's no difference between the SW and SL.
Removing the compressor is no doubt optional.
It definitely made it easier to get at the top water pump bolts.