HELP !!

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by danielr, Jan 26, 2006.

  1. danielr

    danielr Guest

    Have a 1997 SL1, manual transmission.
    Left it at airport parking outdoors for 10 days (this is Toronto,
    Canada. Average daily temperature approximately 3 to 5 Centigrades
    below zero; approximately 22 o 30 Farenheit). Came back this morning,
    when fetched it, started OK , no problem (a new AC Delco like original
    one was replaced few months ago).
    Drove 18 Km (11 miles) and then stopped at post office to fetch held
    mail.
    When came back the light "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" came in the panel.
    Checked all fuses (under hood and inside cabin), they are OK, as this
    happened to be the solution to same instance years ago.
    I read this forum frequently.
    Could someone PLEASE suggest a tentative sequence of tests/checks to
    try?
    So far, verified that oil level OK (synthetic 5-30 was changed about
    600 miles ago), and checked with voltmeter that alternator charges the
    battery OK.
    I would like to avoid going to a mechanic without any specific
    indication of what's wrong, it might turn to be VERY costly.
    BTW, I have the shop manuals of the car, from Saturn.
    ANY help will be greatly appreciated.

    danielr
     
    danielr, Jan 26, 2006
    #1
  2. danielr

    Bob Shuman Guest

    Take the vehicle to Autozone and have the engine diagnostic error code read
    FOR FREE. Post the code here along with mileage, symptoms (if any), and
    recent maintenance history. It might be something as simple as needing to
    tighten the gas cap, a tune up, or an EGR valve. Without knowing the reason
    the engine light was illuminated by the computer you have no idea where to
    look.

    Bob
     
    Bob Shuman, Jan 26, 2006
    #2
  3. And don't let them tell you they can't do it.

    All the check engine light really means is that a sensor has reported a
    value outside its normal range. This can mean there is a problem, or it
    may be a simple sensor malfuntion due to sitting for a long time, and hten
    only being driven a short distance. If it was a one time error, the light
    may go off after around 10 start cycles. If it does, you still should have
    it read, but it isn't quite as urgent. If the light flashes, that's a more
    serious error. I got that often with my previous plug wires - I got a
    misfire under hard acceleration. New wires cured that.
     
    Kevin M. Keller, Jan 26, 2006
    #3
  4. danielr

    danielr Guest

    Gentlemen;
    Thank you very much for your replies.
    There is more infromation to complement my original posting:
    Late last night, when going to enter the car in the garage (the engine
    had been off of more than 10 hours and was definitively cool), the
    alarm light didn't remain ON as before.
    This leads me to suspect it might be related to heating condition of
    either oil, or something else.
    Nevertheless, I plan to go to Autozone (I located one here in Toronto),
    but would be strange they do something for you FOR FREE. Mechanics here
    are inclined to charge even for replying to your incoming "good
    morning" greetings.
    Will (indeed), keep you posted.

    danielr
     
    danielr, Jan 26, 2006
    #4
  5. danielr

    Bob Shuman Guest

    The fact that the check engine light has turned itself off is not uncommon.
    As someone else pointed out, the issue is not all that serious and is most
    likely a sensor reporting an out of bound reading. This could be due to a
    real problem, a bad sensor, a wiring/connection issue, or a computer
    problem. The problem will most likely return unless it was something as
    simple as a loose fuel cap.

    You still have not posted the mileage of the vehicle or the maintenance
    history either. I asked for this since most SL 1.9L Saturn engines seems to
    have the EGR valve get plugged up (part of the problem here is oil
    consumption which you can help some by changing the PCV valve) so report a
    code 032 error. Most have this develop between 80K and 120K miles. The
    part is about $100 and easily replaced in about 30 minutes with pretty
    common tools. I have had some limited success with removing, cleaning and
    replacing the EGR, but the sticking reoccurred within about 20K miles so it
    might be best to just bite the bullet up front if this is the trouble code.

    Good luck.

    Bob
     
    Bob Shuman, Jan 26, 2006
    #5
  6. danielr

    danielr Guest

    Gentlemen;
    Thanks again for your help.
    Sorry for taking this long to update status, but coming back from a
    trip, some other things took priority. Nevertheless, here it is:
    1) The problem seems to be solved, because the telltale lamp "service
    engine soon" no longer remains ON after start.
    2) The main data of my car is this:
    Bought from dealer (someone could not hold the lease any longer), with
    23000 Km (1.6 Km = 1 mile), in January 2000.
    Now it has 126000 Km.
    At approximately 53000 Km installed K&N Filtercharger Air Filter, and
    Platinum Bosh 4+ spark plugs: Dramatic improvement in mileage. Became
    able to get approximately 600 Km (mixed 65 % highway and 35% city
    driving) with 40 liters of 92 octane gasoline.
    Since then, I wash the filter every 25000 Km with K&N kit. Still have
    the plugs.
    At approximately 85000 Km, belt changed.
    At approximately 100000 Km, muffler changed.
    At approximately 115 KM, changed brake pads, also right side inner and
    outer rod end seals that leaked.
    Last September battery was replaced with another AC Delco (didn't keep
    record of mileage, but the original battery was 8 years old, and it was
    time for it).
    Currently running on Michelin harmony tires. Cost a bit more, but the
    grip to snow and ice justify them. Furthermore, noticeable savings in
    gas came as a surprise.
    Regarding PCV : here in Canada, every two years is mandatory to undergo
    the emission test prior to get the license. A hose is attached to the
    exhaust, and gases chromatograph analyzed. Also, the sealing capability
    of gas cup is tested.
    Although this car is relatively new, given the fact that I extremely
    dependent on it, to avoid failure of the test, I change the PCV before
    the test, and also fill with Sunoco 97 octane gas.
    Since purchase, I always used 5-30W Castrol oil, adding Bardhal #1 at
    every oil change (every 3000 Km). It is interesting to mention that
    prior to changing the oil, no burn was noticed. Just this last time
    (about 2000 Km ago), for the first time I tried 5-30W Mobil Synthetic
    Supersyn. To my surprise, last Wednesday when checking oil level
    because of the telltale lamp ON, noticed a decrease from filled level
    (its also drker; starnge thing after only 2000 Km). Replenished the
    difference, but I am starting to believe that perhaps going back to
    Castrol would be wiser (and cheaper), although more frequent.
    That's all for this time.
    Thank you all for you help, comments and suggestions.
    (btw: Autozone checks the DTC -Diagnostic Trouble Code, only after
    payment of C$ 45.00).
     
    danielr, Jan 30, 2006
    #6
  7. danielr

    danielr Guest

    Gentlemen;
    Thanks again for your help.
    Sorry for taking this long to update status, but coming back from a
    trip, some other things took priority. Nevertheless, here it is:
    1) The problem seems to be solved, because the telltale lamp "service
    engine soon" no longer remains ON after start.
    2) The main data of my car is this:
    Bought from dealer (someone could not hold the lease any longer), with
    23000 Km (1.6 Km = 1 mile), in January 2000.
    Now it has 126000 Km.
    At approximately 53000 Km installed K&N Filtercharger Air Filter, and
    Platinum Bosh 4+ spark plugs: Dramatic improvement in mileage. Became
    able to get approximately 600 Km (mixed 65 % highway and 35% city
    driving) with 40 liters of 92 octane gasoline.
    Since then, I wash the filter every 25000 Km with K&N kit. Still have
    the plugs.
    At approximately 85000 Km, belt changed.
    At approximately 100000 Km, muffler changed.
    At approximately 115 KM, changed brake pads, also right side inner and
    outer rod end seals that leaked.
    Last September battery was replaced with another AC Delco (didn't keep
    record of mileage, but the original battery was 8 years old, and it was
    time for it).
    Currently running on Michelin harmony tires. Cost a bit more, but the
    grip to snow and ice justify them. Furthermore, noticeable savings in
    gas came as a surprise.
    Regarding PCV : here in Canada, every two years is mandatory to undergo
    the emission test prior to get the license. A hose is attached to the
    exhaust, and gases chromatograph analyzed. Also, the sealing capability
    of gas cup is tested.
    Although this car is relatively new, given the fact that I extremely
    dependent on it, to avoid failure of the test, I change the PCV before
    the test, and also fill with Sunoco 97 octane gas.
    Since purchase, I always used 5-30W Castrol oil, adding Bardhal #1 at
    every oil change (every 3000 Km). It is interesting to mention that
    prior to changing the oil, no burn was noticed. Just this last time
    (about 2000 Km ago), for the first time I tried 5-30W Mobil Synthetic
    Supersyn. To my surprise, last Wednesday when checking oil level
    because of the telltale lamp ON, noticed a decrease from filled level
    (its also drker; starnge thing after only 2000 Km). Replenished the
    difference, but I am starting to believe that perhaps going back to
    Castrol would be wiser (and cheaper), although more frequent.
    That's all for this time.
    Thank you all for you help, comments and suggestions.
    (btw: Autozone checks the DTC -Diagnostic Trouble Code, only after
    payment of C$ 45.00).
     
    danielr, Jan 30, 2006
    #7
  8. danielr

    Bob Shuman Guest

    "Dirtier oil" isn't necessarily a bad thing ... the synthetic does a better
    job of dissolving sludge and suspending particulate. This actually is
    "cleaning" your engine since that stuff was there. I use 10W-30 oil in the
    summer and 5W-30 in winter in my son's 1.9L 1996 SL. Castrol is good oil.
    Also use a good filter as well (stay away from Fram .. I like Purolator).

    Good luck. Hope the SES light stays out, but I'd suspect the EGR (code 32)
    if it comes back.

    PS Our local Autozone checks the codes for free as I am told do the others
    here in the US.

    Bob
    ..
     
    Bob Shuman, Jan 30, 2006
    #8
  9. "danielr" <> typed until their fingers bled, and came up
    with:

    t, and also fill with Sunoco 97 octane gas.
    97? I'm assuming you mean 87. If not, you're wasting $$. your car is
    designed for 87 - it will not run better on higher octane.
     
    Kevin M. Keller, Jan 31, 2006
    #9
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