r&r altenator

Discussion in 'General Motoring' started by tbg1992, Aug 8, 2005.

  1. tbg1992

    tbg1992 Guest

    hey anybody got a good way 2 r&r alt with pics. is it two plus hours and go
    through top or bottom. thanks for all the help.
     
    tbg1992, Aug 8, 2005
    #1
  2. tbg1992

    Chuck Guest

    Alternator Replacement Procedure:

    1. Write down all of your radio station presets (optional)
    2. Disconnect negative battery cable (most assuredly NOT optional)
    5/16" wrench works well
    3. Jack up the right front corner of the car
    4. Put a jack stand under the car.
    5. Remove the right front wheel
    6. Remove the two plastic splash shields (you pull the plastic
    center pins out of the fasteners to remove).
    7. Use a 14 mm wrench to remove tension from the accessory belt
    (turn wrench clockwise on the bolt in the center of the idler pulley).
    8. Move the belt off of a pulley to remove tension from it.
    9. Remove the 10 mm bolt holding the splash shield onto the
    alternator
    10. Unsnap the splash shield from the alternator.
    11. Unbolt the cable running from the alternator to the starter AT THE
    STARTER.
    12. Carefully pry the clip up from the other alternator connector and
    remove it from the alternator. Be careful not to break the clip off of
    the connector.
    13. Remove the upper alternator bolt (13 mm) from above.
    14. Remove the lower alternator bolt (13 mm) from below.
    15. Remove alternator down through the wheel well.


    You now have the alternator with a 1 ft cable attached. You need to
    remove this. The Chilton's manual suggests using a 13 mm wrench that
    is only about 60 thousands of an inch thick to hold the stud coming
    from the alternator (to prevent it from turning). Such wrenches are
    quite difficult to find. I removed the cable from the alternator by
    putting two 10 mm nuts on the top of the stud and tightening them
    against each other. Then, I used one 10 mm wrench to loosen the nut
    holding the cable while using another 10 mm wrench against the bottom
    of the two 10 mm nuts that I put at the top.

    The bottom line in working without the stud coming out from the
    alternator is you don't want to put any torque on it with respect to
    the alternator. It is (ahem) not a robust design. When you get this
    cable off, put it on the same position on the new alternator and
    tighten it similarly (using something to hold the stud into the
    alternator to keep it from turning. Either a very thin 13 mm wrench,
    or the double nut trick. Then reverse steps 15 to 1 in reverse order.
     
    Chuck, Aug 10, 2005
    #2
Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.