SW2 - Trouble inserting key in ignition

Discussion in 'Saturn S-series' started by Peter A. Schott, Oct 7, 2006.

  1. Not sure what's causing this, but I'm having more trouble inserting my key
    into the ignition on my '99 SW2. Sometimes it goes right in, sometimes the
    piece of metal over the hole just won't budge until I fiddle with things for a
    while. Is this a cause for concern? Do I need a new part or have to take
    something apart to do some repairs?

    Thanks.

    -Pete Schott
     
    Peter A. Schott, Oct 7, 2006
    #1
  2. Peter A. Schott

    Doug Miller Guest

    Try some powdered graphite in the lock. You can find this in the tool or
    hardware department at Sears, or at any hardware store.
     
    Doug Miller, Oct 7, 2006
    #2
  3. Peter A. Schott

    Lane Guest

    Lane, Oct 7, 2006
    #3
  4. Thanks, but that's not quite my problem. I'm having trouble getting the key
    in sometimes. No problems getting it out. Just the little cover that is over
    the hole doesn't want to move at times. I mess around with it for a minute or
    two and all is well, but I'm wondering what's going on and if there's anything
    that might be causing it that wouldn't require replacing the entire ignition
    cylinder.

    Just wasn't sure if that was common or even quite what to search on for a
    problem of the key not going in.

    Thanks.

    -Pete

     
    Peter A. Schott, Oct 10, 2006
    #4
  5. Peter A. Schott

    Doug Miller Guest

    Powdered graphite works wonders on uncooperative locks.
     
    Doug Miller, Oct 10, 2006
    #5
  6. Peter A. Schott

    SnoMan Guest


    So does replacing the lock cylinder. They are not they hard to change
    on a Saturn as I just replaced the one in a 97. You do have to remove
    cover around steering wheel and lock and then then to insert key trun
    it too accessory, and eithe press a button on cylinder housing or
    stick a pin in a hole on it (depending on housing style as yours could
    be either but likley the button style) and then remove cylinder by
    pulling on key. Saturn can code you a new cylinder to match old key
    for your car and if you do it yourself it is about 35 bucks. The new
    cylinder just snaps right in and you are in bussiness and you replace
    covers on your are done. Maybe a 10 or 15 mintue job with right tools.
     
    SnoMan, Oct 10, 2006
    #6
  7. Peter A. Schott

    Doug Miller Guest

    A tube of powdered graphite is about three bucks, and it takes maybe fifteen
    seconds to puff a little bit into the lock cylinder.

    Which method do *you* think makes more sense to try first?
     
    Doug Miller, Oct 10, 2006
    #7
  8. Peter A. Schott

    NapalmHeart Guest

    Easier, cheaper, quicker is always a good place to start.

    Ken
     
    NapalmHeart, Oct 10, 2006
    #8
  9. Peter A. Schott

    SnoMan Guest


    Well I tried the graphic trick and it made it worsed and cause the key
    in lock warning to run when key was out after treatment too. No more
    graphite for me. I had to clean the plunger in housing that cylinder
    pressed on when key was in that the graphite gummed up! If it is a 99
    it has some wear on it too. It now works like new and it came with a
    new bezel around key too which is a nice touch and a extra key.
     
    SnoMan, Oct 10, 2006
    #9
  10. Peter A. Schott

    Doug Miller Guest

    ???

    Graphite is a dry powder. It doesn't -- can't -- gum anything up.
     
    Doug Miller, Oct 10, 2006
    #10
  11. Peter A. Schott

    SnoMan Guest


    Yes it can because the plunger had a bit of grease on it from factory
    as did key cylinder end and the graphite combined with it and goo'ed
    it just enough for plunger to stick because it has a low force spring
    on it. Unless you are sure that lock is "dry" it is not wise to use it
    sometimes as I found out first hand.
     
    SnoMan, Oct 11, 2006
    #11
  12. Peter A. Schott

    Doug Miller Guest

    You're putting the blame in the wrong place IMO, on the graphite instead of on
    the grease where it belongs.
     
    Doug Miller, Oct 11, 2006
    #12
  13. Peter A. Schott

    SnoMan Guest


    Know I am not, the grease was in there from day one, I did not put it
    there and that part worked fine (key warning tone) until I tried
    graphite and the graphite do not fix cylinder problems either so I
    replaced it and cleaned plunger of graphite goo .
     
    SnoMan, Oct 11, 2006
    #13
  14. Peter A. Schott

    Roy Guest

    Doesn't matter which one he is blamiung, he pointed out that if there is
    grease in there and graphite is added it may cause problems. To me graphite
    seems like a temporary fix where a new key cylinder would be more of a long
    term thing.
    Seems to be a weak point on the S series to me. I know three other people
    personally with keys that are hard to get in and/or turn with S series cars.
    I've owned 14 cars of a variety of brands (most older than my SL1) and have
    never had any key problems until this one.
     
    Roy, Oct 11, 2006
    #14
  15. Peter A. Schott

    SnoMan Guest


    I found out that Saturn used at least 3 cylinder styles in that car.
    The original 7 tumbler one, a upgraded 7 tumbler one that was a
    service replacement for the original one (not sure when this came out)
    and a 9 tumbler one. The 9 tumbler version came out in mid 97 so a 97
    can have either one. The housing changed too for new 9 tumbler version
    but the upgraded 7 tumbler version retrofits into old style housing. I
    do not know if the 9 tumbler version was improved or not at a later
    date because it did not apply to my car anyway. One more thing, GM
    mounts the housing with break away bolts (heads break off) so if you
    have to replaced the housing it can be a pain getting the bolts out
    even when starting them with a chisel because they can have loctite on
    them too. Also when you replace a cylinder, you get a tumbler kit so
    you can easily code it to your old key.
     
    SnoMan, Oct 11, 2006
    #15
  16. Peter A. Schott

    Lane Guest

    Seems to be a weak point on the S series to me. I know three other people
    Personally, I think some people are contributors to this. The key and
    cylinder will wear more if your keychain contains tons of keys and a big
    mess of extra crap on it (why do I often see women with HUGE keychains?).
    Especially as it dangles, swings around, and gets hit by your knees all the
    time.

    Graphite may help, if that grease doesn't get in the way, but a better
    long-term solution is replacement of the cylinder. The original poster
    pointed out that it was the little metal flap/cover thingy only - but it's a
    part of that cylinder and the mechanisms all work together. I've had mine
    refuse to turn once, and when you're away from home or on the road
    somewhere - complete failure of it would seriously suck. It's not difficult
    and it's not expensive, so just replace it.

    Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]
     
    Lane, Oct 11, 2006
    #16
  17. Peter A. Schott

    SnoMan Guest


    Interesting theory. It may indeed have some merit.
     
    SnoMan, Oct 11, 2006
    #17
  18. Peter A. Schott

    BläBlä Guest

    Agreed on the gobs of keys. Stuffed animals and photos on the instrument
    panal blocking idiot lights and gages are another problem I see... Oh
    and crap hanging from the rearview mirror... And who is the frig'n moron
    that keeps tacking on all of the damn Re's!!!

    Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re:
    Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re:
    Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Retard: Re: Re:
     
    BläBlä, Oct 12, 2006
    #18
  19. Peter A. Schott

    NapalmHeart Guest

    Lane gives good advice. Damn good.

    Ken
     
    NapalmHeart, Oct 12, 2006
    #19
  20. Peter A. Schott

    drand5 Guest

     
    drand5, Oct 12, 2006
    #20
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